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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.